This New Old Truck
From Rolling Chassis To Finished
Text by Paul Zazarine and Dave
Photography by E. John Thawley
With our rolling chassis completed in the last
issue, it is time to paint and assemble the body and interior. We started by
taking the disassembled cab shell to BlastTech of Fresno. We not only wanted to
remove the original paint, but also any undercoating and seam sealer so we could
start with a fresh surface. There are a variety of methods available to the
truck enthusiast for stripping metal surface. Every method has its
With chemical stripping there is the possibility that not all the
chemicals will be removed during the rinse process. We chose to have the body of
our project '72 blasted instead of chemically stripped. One word
1. The cab, fenders, doors, hood, bed and other body
panels were first blasted to remove paint and rust. After cleanup, we sanded the
body, filled in any holes and dents and prepped the metal for
caution about blasting
failure to safeguard against warpage will result in ruined parts. Since we were
fortunate enough to start with a rust-free, original pain truck, it was possible
to lightly blast the body parts to clean them to bare metal. It is imperative to
use a company that is qualified and experienced at blasting sheetmetal. BlasTech
uses a special blend of abrasives and controlled air pressure to ensure that the
sheetmetal will not warp during the stripping process.
Body work and paint
chores were handled by Dan Haws at Custom AutoCycle, also located in Fresno. The
first order of business was to test fit the doors to the cab openings. After 25
years of use on the farm, our '72 was in need of some panel alignment, not to
mention door hinge rebuilding. After a complete trial fitting, the cab was
smoothed of all dings and scrapes, and then block-sanded repeatedly in
preparation for paint. The only true way to paint a vehicle is panel by panel.
Unfortunately, it is also the most time-consuming and frustrating. Painting
every piece separately requires many extra hours preparing all the panel
surfaces that would normally not be refinished if the vehicle were painted with
the body assembled. It also presents a challenge trying to find a method of
hanging each piece for painting.
We chose to paint our project using
Martin Senour's TRIO Prime which is a self-etching, corrosion resistant primer.
This served as our base primer to cover the bare metal surfaces. From there we
used Martin Senour's Tec Prime 5101 urethane surfacer to give us a base to block
sand...and block sand. After what seemed like months of sanding and preparation,
it was finally time to start hanging panels in the booth.
aspect of our project was the two-tone paint. This required painting the center
and top base color first, then masking over them to spray the orange base color.
Once the base colors were ready, Martin Senour's Tec system clearcoat was
applied over the base colors, giving not only depth to the paint finish, but
also added protection as well.
It is important to remember that your
material consumption will be substantially more if you completely refinishing
ever panel inside and out.
After giving the
clearcoat the recommended curing time, the paint was first color sanded using
1200-grit wet paper to remove any foreign material that may have landed in the
clearcoat. This was followed up with 1500-grit wet paper and finally polished to
give us a deep, brilliant paint finish.
With all the paint work complete,
it was time to begin assembling this giant model kit. The first order of
business was to set the cab shell back onto our rolling chassis. This proved to
be harder than expected, as there is no real place to handle
body panel was primed, extensively block sanded and then taped for the two-tone