Getting a Blazer in the Weeds.

   Sport utility vehicles aren't new to the automotive world. They've been around for more than 60 years, but the tremendous appeal they currently have is certainly new. Due to the popularity of the new models, it's only natural the earlier models would also see more attention. And when you transfer the modern conveniences of today's sport/utility vehicles to early Blazers and Suburbans, you have an unbeatable combination.
   With this old/new combination in mind, Early Classic Enterprises, who you might remember from it's '72 Chevy buildup seen in this magazine ("This Old Truck," Sept., Nov., and Jan. '97), scoured the Southwest for a potential vehicle to apply this theory to. What Early Classic found was a '72 CST Blazer that had been restored a few years back and was starting to show signs of wear. To bring it up to the the company's level of satisfaction-which is as close to perfect as you can get-Early Classic decided to freshen and update it.
   Early Classic will turn this classic SUV into a modern driving and performance machine using the latest in suspension and driveline improvements along with a top-notch sound system and a noise-reduction package for the interior. When it's complete, it will be able to compete with anything that's coming out of Detroit today.
   Every project must start somewhere, and this one started with

what Early Classic knows best: the suspension. We'll show how the company lowered the front end with its latest front suspension components. Stay tuned. We have lots more to bring you as the project progresses.

1. After the truck was placed on jack stands, the brake caliper was unbolted to allow the rotor to be removed.
To prevent possible future brake failure, it's important to never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose. Here, the caliper is supported by a piece of mechanic's wire.

2. The outer tie rods were removed next. Keep in mind that now is the opportune time to maximize the truck's handling and performance by rebuilding your truck's front suspension while the components are disassembled. Rapping the spindle with a large hammer will break loose the tapered seat of the tie-rod ends and ball joints.

3. To remove the brake rotor, you must remove the dust cap to gain access to the castle nut and outer bearing. This is the perfect opportunity to replace the wheel bearings and seals as well as resurface the rotors and replace the brake pads.